THE PORTABLE ARMOURY
by Ld. Ranyart Boarsbane

I have found that it is handy to carry with me to events some armouring equipment. For me, this is usually to make fittings for individuals buying armour from me. However, it is also nice to be able to make "on the spot" repairs or even build something from scratch. The standard tools I use and carry about with me are:

This is all the standard equipment that I need. It may seem like a lot, but most of it packs into one box about the size of a case of beer. In fact, I use an old Beck's box. The only other thing you need are some work surfaces. Anvils and treestumps for dishing are not real portable.

I found a place where some railroad repairs were being done. At this site I found some pieces of railroad tie about 18 inches long and several small pieces of rail. I prepared one block as follows:

In one end of the block I carved a depression for dishing. This is easiest done with wood chisels and a small grinder. I chiseled out a rough depression for dishing and then smoothed it with the grinder using a worn wheel that was only 21 to 3 inches in diameter. Then, using the same method I cut a trench down one broad side of the block for curving plates. Then on one of the narrower sides I mounted a small anvil like the little leatherwork anvils Tandy sells.

Dish in end

Trench on side

End View

I then prepared a piece of railroad rail to mount on another block. This will be for a bit heavier work. For this operation you will need a cutting torch and grinder. Cut the rail in the way described in the diagram. If you don't have a torch or access to one most machine shops will be able to do this for you.

Top	Side
	Before	After

Drill two holes in each side (at least 3/8 in.) for mounting rail. Used railroad rail will have one edge sharp and one round where the train wheels have worn it down on the inside. I like the anvil like this so you can make a sharp fold or a soft fold. Also, used rail has been work hardened by the trains so it is very hard; overheating it when cutting is not desirable as it will anneal (soften) the rail.

Next I went down to the local sporting goods store and bought a 4 kilo (8.8 lbs.) shotput. I picked up a 12 in. piece of 4x4 and 36 in. of threaded rod, 5/8"dia., and nuts and washers for it.

Now, center and bore a 5/8 in. hole 2 in. from the edge of the second tie block.

Now bore a hole all the way through the 4x4 from end to end.

Side

End

Next make a countersink hole around the bored holes in one side of the tie block and on one end of the 4x4 large enough to accomodate the width of the washer. Make the countersink deep enough to seat the washer and nut down into it.

Put a washer and nut on one end of the threaded rod and tap the rod through the tie block until the nut and washer are tightly seated in the countersink. Now put the 4x4 onto the threaded rod that is sticking up through the tie block.

Put the washer and nut on the top and tighten down as tightly as possible into the  countersink in the top of the 4x4. Be sure to leave at least 3 in. of the threaded rod sticking out the top of the 4x4. Cut to appropriate length with a hacksaw.

Using a 9/16 drill bit, bore a hole about 2.5 to 3 in. into the shotput. File or grind the threads off of the rod that is sticking out of the block until you get a snug fit with the hole in the shotput. Be sure the ball is resting on the wood and not on the end of the rod! A shotput is cast iron and can be split if your rod is too long.

Using lag bolts (4 in. long) the same size as the holes in the rail anvil, mount the rail on the block in the center, about 2 in. away from the 4x4.

Threaded Rod

Shave

  Finished Top View

Shave the 4x4 around the base of the shotput to allow a little more working room around the ball.

With all this you can do almost anything. The two blocks will give you almost any surface you might need for working sheet metal and setting rivets. This is also an ideal setup for the apartment dweller. With a rubber pad under the blocks to deaden the sound a bit, you won't annoy the neighbors (much).

Certainly some of the power tools are optional. You can substitute a sheet metal punch (Whitney 45) for the drill, but the punch has a short throat and won't punch into the middle of a big piece, so a drill is more versatile (but, of course, requires electricity). The grinder is not a real necessity, but it is the easiest way to remove rivets. Rivets can be removed with a chisel and punch, but will distort the metal around the rivet hole. Many of the field repairs will consist of fixing straps, so being able to remove rivets quickly is an advantage. The grinder is also good for knocking off sharp or jagged edges on the metal, but a file will do.

If you have a power shear or nibblers they are the easiest to use, but a sabre saw with a lot of blades will do. I have a little generator (800 watts) which is very handy at sites without convenient electricity (like TYC) but a long extension cord or two will probably do in most cases.

You can probably make do with far less, but the work you turn out will usually look like it. You can do some real quality work with a setup like this one, and repair almost anything. I turned out a finished pair of plate legs fitted to the buyer at TYC in one day, and you could not tell I didn't make them in my shop at home. This setup is great for Renfairs and demos as you can make something in front of a crowd and the noise you generate attracts a bigger crowd.

This may look rather involved at first glance, but the better your equipment, the better your work will look.

Happy Hammering

Ranyart