Copyright 1980 David A. Counts
A MAIL-MAKING PRIMER
Please note that all of the examples shown here are constructed of 16 gauge wire and rolled with a 1/4 inch inside diameter. Variations in wire gauge and the inside diameter of the links will influence the construction of mail garments to a limited extent (i.e., the thicker the wire and the smaller the link, the more rigid the mail). However, the starting pattern for the coif may not work with other wire gauge/inside diameter combinations. If you have problems, I suggest trying to work through row 3 and then removing the single link which constitutes row 1. If all else fails, write me, and I'll see if I can help.
--WARNING: THIS IS A BRIEF OUTLINE-
--THERE ARE ALTERNATIVES TO JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING I SAY HERE.-
PART THE FIRST: AN ESOTERIC VOCABULARY
Mail: An armour consisting of inter-linked metal rings. "Chain-mail" is not a Mediaeval term!
Link: A single metal ring (figure 1).
Figure 1.
Basic Group: A group of five links which are aligned to show the basic pattern of "4-in-1" (four links in one link) mail (figure 2).
Figure 2.
Butt: The act of wedging the ends of a link together (with pliers) to produce a closed ring (figure 3).
Figure 3.
PART THE SECOND: STANDARD MAIL PATTERNS
1. Butt four links (figure 4).
Figure 4a.
Figure 4b.
2. Place the butted links on an open link (figure 5).
Figure 5.
3.Butt the open link, and arrange the links into a basic group (figure 6).
Figure 6.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 twice. Now you have three basic groups. Align the basic groups so that the center links of each group all tilt in one direction (figure 7).
Figure 7.
5.Fun time! Take an open link and pass it through the end links (two per basic group) of two of the basic groups and butt it (figure 8).
Figure 8.
Be sure this link tilts the same way as the other center links (figure 9).
Figure 9.
6.Repeat step 5 and join the remaining basic group to the mail you just finished (figure 10).
Figure 10.
7. To expand your mail horizontally, just add more basic groups. Note: Almost all hauberks (mail shirts) were constructed with the alternate rows running left/right, not up/down. Line drawings in texts are often misleading on this point!!! (See figure 11.)
Figure 11. right
Figure 11. wrong
8. To expand your mail vertically, you may add one row at a time by passing a link through each pair of links in the previous row (figure 12). Note: You must add extra links at the ends of every other row (figure 13), or the mail will taper to a point (figure 14).
Figure 12.
Figure 13. extra links
Figure 14.
PART THE THIRD: TAPERING AND EXPANDING MAIL
1. The tapering and expansion of mail are the same things only done bass-ackwards.
2. Tapering is the reduction of the number of links in a row. This is usually done to allow a hauberk to more closely conform to the contours of your body. Tapering quite simply consists of "dropping a link" by passing a link in a new row through three links in the prior row (rather than the usual two) (figure 15).
Figure 15.
3. Expansion consists of "adding a link". This is done to allow that nice, tapered hauberk to flair over your hips. This is done by passing a link in the new row through only one link of the previous row (figure 16).
Figure 16.
PART THE FOURTH: STARTING A COIF (MAIL HOOD)
1. Take a pretty link and call it row 1 (figure 17).
Figure 17.
2. Place six closed links on the row 1 link and butt it. Call these six links row 2. Align row 2 links so they all tilt in the same direction (figure 18).
Figure 18. right
Figure 18. wrong
3. Add a 3rd row in the standard manner. (See Part the Second, Step Eight.) The last link you have to add may be troublesome. Use patience and brute force and make that little sap-sucker fit into place. Make sure all links in row 2 stay aligned (figure 19)!!!
Figure 19.
4. Add six new links to row 3. (See Part the Third, Step Three on "expansion".) Now row 3 has twelve links (figures 20 and 21).
Figure 20. 1st new link
Figure 21. All new links are in place.
5. Add twelve links (a 4th row) in the standard manner (figure 22).
Figure 22.
6.Add twelve new links to row 4. Now row 4 has twenty-four links. Then add a 5th row in the standard manner (figure 23).
Figure 23. All twenty-four initial links of row 5 added .
7.You can now complete the coif to eye-brow level by adding four links to each new row (starting with row 5). Place the new links at equidistant points around the circle. If you're wise, you'll wear an arming-hood beneath your coif. So when judging the fit of the coif as you construct it, take the bulk of the arming hood into consideration.
I know this is a terribly brief primer, but it is only a primer. I built my hauberk and coif with even less knowledge at my disposal to begin with.
For an informed SCA populace, I am Barok-Baran, K.S.C.A.
David A. Counts
P. O. Box 55821
Birmingham, AL 35255
or dcounts@UABMC.EDU