CHAIN MAIL LEGGINGS WITH FEET
By Lord Wilhelm von Plauen

    A pair of mail leggings with feet has been made which effectively approximates those apparently worn during the 11th - 12th centuries. The leggings are a somewhat form-fitted stocking of steel rings. The stocking, which has been made to be worn over a thick sock and sweatpants, extends from the toes to mid-thigh. A deer hide sole protects the chain links of the undersurface of the foot from being worn or damaged and keeps dirt out as well. The leggings are worn suspended by straps from a belt.

    16 GA Galvanized saw cut steel rings with an inside diameter of 5/16" were used. The basic pattern is like that of a knitted sock which forms to the foot and minimizes the number of irregular seams, while allowing for freedom of movement of the foot and ankle (Illustration I).

    The initial step was to make a strip of mail which extended from just below the knee to the level of the ankle bone and wide enough when brought around into a cylinder at the ankle to permit the passage of the foot wearing a heavy sock (Illustration II). The cylinder is closed from bottom to top. Rows are expanded to cover the calf muscle and then reduced a little as the knee is approached. Measurements and trial fittings are done wearing the sweatpants and sock. Fitting is to be a little loose. An identical piece of work is done for the other leg. The second step in construction is to make a cylinder which encompasses the foot the length of the metatarsal of the great toe (Illustration III). The cylinder must be loose enough to allow easy passage of the foot, while not being floppy (remember the sock). A second identical cylinder is made for the other foot. These are joined to the lower leg sections as shown in Illustration III.

    The third step in construction involves making a strip of mail as wide as the back of the ankle and joins the underside of the foot to the back of the ankle of the lower leg cylinder. This piece should be long enough to permit freedom of movement for the foot to be hyperflexed (Illustration IV). The same work is done for the other foot. The fourth step involves closing the heel. This is done in several stages.

1) Extend back of lower leg cylinder on both sides of heel as shown in Illustration V.

2) Extend foot cylinder and expand underside of heel strip until contact is made with the rings from the foot (Illustration VI)

3) Join along irregular seam in the fashion that the irregularity is smoothest and least noticeable. Rings must lie flat along the bottom of the foot when weight is applied (Illustration VII).

    The fifth step, closing the toes, is accomplished by gradually reducing the number of rings as the foot cylinder section is extended toward the toes and the closing as in the fashion of the center ring of a coif (Illustration VIII). Repeated trial fittings were done throughout the process. Trial joinings were done with brass rings that were easy to see and remove.

    Closing the heel was done while on the foot, with the right ankle resting on the left knee. When the inside section of the right foot was closed, the stocking was removed, placed on the left foot and the other side of the heel was closed with the left foot resting on the right knee.

    The end of the toe was left long enough to allow the foot to spread as weight was applied. When the leggings were extended to cover the knees, flexing of the knees became impossible. Freedom of knee movement was obtained by exaggerating the diameter of the legging as it passed over the knee and up the thigh and supporting the legging above and below the knee with leather straps which are supported by a belt (Illustration IX). More efficient support could probably be devised but the above seems to work. Now the leggings extend above the lower edge of the mail shirt. In all probability, they will be extended up the thigh. Another possibility is that padded leggings which are supported by the belt cover the thigh above the knee and are fastened to the upper parts of the mail leggings.

    The soles were made by standing on a piece of deer hide while another person traced around the feet. The soles were then cut out and sewn to the mail stocking with synthetic sinew. The sewing had to be done while wearing the stockings so that the sole remained in the proper position while being sewn. Because the rings lay flat and without seams across the bottom of the foot, there is no discomfort walking on the chain if socks of a proper thickness are worn. Thin socks can permit a link to become twisted and uncomfortable.

Irregular Seam
Extend here
Expand and Extend
Line of Irregularity (does not involve walking surface)
Reduce as Extending