Mid-14th Century style Klapp Visor Bascinet

Size: Medium
Length: Regular


Completed: Aug. 3, 1999
       The helmet shown is a size medium with close fitted bottom plate. The weight of the helmet is about 7 lbs. without camail or (currently) 12 lbs. with camail. Sheet metal is 14ga. 304 stainless steel except for the hinge which is 12ga.
       Notes: The two rivet shafts (one on each side) just above the top of the face plate keep the face plate from shifting side to side or up. There is a spring pin that goes through the bottom key hole in the hinge to lock it in place.


Notes about Patterns:
       All of the patterns by Craig Nadler on this web site are on 8.5 inch by 11 inch graph paper. The large squares on the paper are 1 inch by 1 inch. If you print the patterns as 8.5 inches by 11 inches with no margins they will be full scale. Instructions on how to do this are at the bottom of this page. If the patterns don't give a size they are men's size medium.
       This pattern is copyrighted, but this is only to stop someone from publishing it without giving me credit. Feel free to use any of my patterns on this site to make armour for personal use or for sale.
      -Craig Nadler
Armour Projects by Craig Nadler



Photos of Finished Piece:

Klapp Bascinet at 45 dregrees
Klapp Bascinet, back
Klapp Bascinet, front
Klapp Bascinet, grill front
Klapp Bascinet, grill side
Klapp Bascinet, inside
Klapp Bascinet, grill front

Armour Pieces:

Klapp Visier (Part 1)
Klapp Visier (Part 2)
Bottom [Medium, Regular] (Part 1)
Bottom [Medium, Regular] (Part 2)
Top [Medium] (Part 1)
Top [Medium] (Part 2)
Misc Pieces [Medium]


I would build these arms in the following order:

1) Cut out the plates.
2) Punch holes in the side/bottom plate for the camail mounting and cheek plates.
3) Finish the plate edges and corners.
4) Dish and shape the top halves.
5) Weld the top halves together.
6) Grind weld flush on the outside and cleanup weld on the inside if needed.
7) Shape the side/bottom plate to fit the helmet top.
8) Weld the side/bottom plate on to the helmet top.
9) Grind weld flush on the outside and cleanup weld on the inside if needed.
10) Put a around a 220 grit finish on the helmet. (I use the Course and then Medium 3M surface conditioning disks)
11) Add leather mounting strip for camail.
12) Dish, raise, and crease the Klapp Visor face plate then shape it to fit helmet with camail mounting in place.
13) Punch breath holes and cut eye slots. Flare the edges of the eye slots.
14) Build the hinges for the two face plates.
15) Added rivet posts to the helmet will go through the key hole slots on the hinges.
16) Rivet the hinge onto the Klapp Visor face plate.
17) Add spring pin on helmet that goes through the bottom of the lower key hole slot on the face plate hinge.
18) Shape the two cheek plates so that they support the face plate.
19) Rivet cheek plates on to the helmet so that they are attached under the side/bottom plate (NOT over).
20) Add two rivet posts above the top edge of the face plate to keep it from shifting from side to side.
21) Build the bar grill visor.
22) Weld the hinge onto the bar grill visor. Be sure to adjust the lenght of the hinge so that the top bar hits the two rivet posts at the same time the bottom of the visor hits the cheek plates.
23) Add visor straps.
24) Add the camail (You're on your own with the camail).

How to print the patterns:

From Redhat Linux 5.1 with xv (Should work on any Linux or UNIX with "xv"):
    Load the JPEG pattern files into "xv" (example "xv elbow_p1.jpg"). Print the file from "xv" as a grayscale image on a 8.5" X 11" page with the height and width set to 102.50%.  Remember to "Center" the image after setting the height and width set to 102.50%.

From MS-Windows 95 :
    If you run the program "Imaging" that's under the "Accessories" menu you can load the JPEG pattern files (*.jpg) and save them as MS-Windows Bitmap files (*.bmp). After that load the Bitmap files into "Paint" (which is also under the "Accessories" menu). Then stretch the image 128% both horizontally and vertically. I set all the margins to 0.25 inches, which was as small as the printer driver would allow. It this point I was able to print the pattern so that the squares were 1 inch by 1 inch as they should be.