LEATHER REINFORCED BRIGANDINE
Sir Saavogg Haraldson and Regin Bran Haraldsson

 

Tools required are simple and, generally, inexpensive. The only vital tool that cannot in some way be substituted for - is a leather hole punch.

Other useful tools:

Materials needed:

Step One: scale production. With your trusty rotary leather punch (or other punch effective on leather ) punch at least two holes in the dominoes for attaching to the canvas, in any place you want. (Saavogg uses two holes in adjacent corners of one short side of the domino) When you about half filled a grocery bag you are ready for . . .

Step Two: hardening of the scales through impregnation with wax. Melt the paraffin, in a double broiler for reasons of safety and temperature control. Be sure that no water gets into the wax - it will damage the leather. The leather MUST be kept dry.

The wax needs to be thoroughly melted, and the water boiling, when you put the dominoes in. Put five or ten dominoes into the wax at a time, for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. The leather will bubble very finely while it is immersed. This is the air making room for the wax. Dip the leather out with the spoon/drainer/whatever. Shake off the excess wax - cautiously - and lay them out to cool - apart, so they don't stick together. It should be possible for you to hold the dominoes for the few seconds you will need. At worst, invest in pair of rubber gloves. Lay them out on linoleum or pressboard that you can safely scrape a bit of wax from. Let them cool about six hours. If the ends or corners start to curl, just bend straight with your hands. (Note: You can shape the chips in any way you want while warm and soft. It will retain the shape when it cools and hardens. Be creative.)

Step Three: make your canvas backing. Cut it to a surcoat pattern, or to any other pattern that will cover your torso that you desire to try. Sew the shoulders together and hem all the way around every edge, such that there are no edges left to unravel. (See drawing) Lay out the cooled dominoes vertically in a horizontal line along the lower edge. You can overlap them slightly or you can butt them together or you can space them slightly apart. (I recommend butt them together. It seems to cover best without restricting movement.) Sew the scales on - a row at a time is easier, but individually will probably last longer. Repeat the process, overlapping each row over the row below. Start at the the bottom of the shirt, front and back, and work your way up. You will have more flexibility if you line up the spaces between dominoes, but it you wish, you can stagger them. (The shoulder, where the overlapping-in-opposite directions comes together, may pose an interesting problem. Recommend you set aside a few dominoes with holes in the center, so that either end may overlap in either direction.)

Step Four: Cover with fine velvet (or other nice-looking material) and add any straps and buckles you plan to use to strap it on. The velvet needs to cover completely around the edges of the armor and be sewn to the canvas back. The straps need to be sewn on through the complete armor - you will need to punch a few extra holes for this. PLAN AHEAD!

Now quick, while it's still new: Run out and enter a Crown List. Your opponents will be so dazzled by your new torso armor that you can bash their heads in with little or no trouble (Fancy period armor intimidates some people.)

Credit where credit is due: This was conceived with the immeasurable help of Barok Baran, Stonehew, Orm, Sir John of Sherwood O.L., Sir Sven Lord Vandelaven O.L. O.R.R., Enawynne of Olwen and Regin.